I recently snagged a Stanley 5 1/2 bench plane on eBay, and it's way bigger than I anticipated! The issue is that the plane iron is pretty rusted, and it doesn't shave off nice strips, leaving marks on the wood. I'm on the hunt for a replacement, but the only options I found are over €50. Should I just grind it down to get rid of the cavities, or should I grind it more toward the middle? Also, the iron is thinner than I expected (maybe under 2 mm). Is that normal? I measured the iron, and it's 2 3/8" (60mm) thick, but the pitting is quite bad. I'm planning to grind it a bit, maybe add a micro bevel, but I worry there's still some severe pitting further down the iron, but slightly off to the side. Thanks for the help, and I'll add some photos if I remember!
7 Answers
If you've got an earlier model Stanley 5 1/2, you'll need a 2 1/4 inch blade, which can be tricky to find. If it's a later model, then a 2 3/8 inch blade is much easier to come by. Unfortunately, shipping costs can be daunting, especially internationally, so just replacing it might not be your best bet right now. If the back has deep pitting, I wouldn't waste time trying to lap it; instead, you could try putting a back bevel on it. Check out some articles about 'back bevel sharpening'. It's a neat trick to get a sharp edge without a ton of metalwork!
It’s tough to say without seeing it, but if you can get the back flattened and polished, even with some pitting it can still work well. Just make sure the edge is restored. If the pitting is too bad, you might not have much of a blade left after resurfacing. Replacement blades are definitely an option, but have a look at yours first!
Just a heads up: I'm assuming you know that your plane iron needs regular sharpening? You don't want to be buying new ones every time it dulls!
Pitting isn't a dealbreaker unless it’s right at the edge. You can often lap it down until the pitting is gone, but if it’s really deep, that could take a while. You might want to buy a new blade for around $20 since vintage ones can be expensive on their own. Just make sure you check the width before purchasing!
I’d recommend soaking it in some Evaporust overnight to help clean it up. If the pitting isn't too severe, it could still be useful. When it comes to replacements, they can get pricey for good quality. I personally like Hock blades; they’re a bit of an investment but super worth it!
Start by lapping the back on some coarse sandpaper laid on a flat surface. That should get rid of the rust and help you assess the pitting. If it’s super deep right at the edge, you could end up spending hours lapping it down or just go for a replacement. Remember, you’ll need to keep resharpening your iron, so the initial effort to get it sharp is actually good practice. Don’t worry about the thickness; thinner irons actually perform better and are easier to sharpen in the long run!
I have a double thickness Hock, and honestly, it’s not that big of a difference. The only advantage is having square sides, but I prefer a thinner blade for easier sharpening!
1. Post some close-up pics of the back near the cutting edge to get better advice.
2. Check out James Wright's YouTube channel 'Wood by Wright'—he did some tests on various brands, and there are budget irons that performed surprisingly well.
Are the Made in England 5.5s also 2 1/4 early on? I've used those irons, and I find they cut just as well as the Made in USA ones.