I'm diving into hand tool woodworking and challenging myself to build some winding sticks and a workbench shaped like a sawhorse—all by hand (except for drilling dog holes). As I explore this, I find myself overwhelmed by the variety of handsaws out there: panel saws, backsaws, rip saws, crosscut saws... the list goes on! It feels like I need at least four different saws just to get started: a rip cut panel saw for resawing a 34" 2x2 into winding sticks, a crosscut panel saw for cutting an 8' 2x12 for the workbench top, and both crosscut and rip backsaws for mortise and tenon joints. How do I navigate this?
5 Answers
99% of my fine work is done with a 12 tpi Veritas tenon saw or a Crown tools gents saw. I do rough work with a Japanese pull saw that has a rip side and a crosscut side—truly replaced my panel saws. I’ve accumulated a ton of vintage handsaws but mainly use those three!
Honestly, I'd suggest grabbing that two-sided Irwin pull saw. It has a rip side and crosscut side and works surprisingly well for under $30! It’s a great way to kick off your hand tool journey, especially when you're just starting out. Plus, if you're still setting up your workspace, this could help you get a few projects done without breaking the bank.
The good news is that finding hand saws is easier than you might think! Lots of people have old saws gathering dust in their garages, so check out places like Habitat for Humanity ReStores or Goodwill. You can often find quality brands like Disston or Atkins at a fraction of what new saws cost. For your joinery, a fine-tooth rip saw can tackle your tenon shoulders, and you really won't need a crosscut backsaw right away. Start with what you can find because your winding sticks will turn out great with some nice straight-grained hardwood—avoid that SPF lumber!
I have a S4S piece of Red Oak for these winding sticks. Didn’t want to go too fancy for my first set. I’m sure later on I’ll do a nicer hardwood with inlays.
To dovetail off your reply: I’m eyeing a D-8 but most of them online seem to be set up as crosscuts without the thumb hole. Should I just hunt for a rip saw with that thumb hole or is it better to get a crosscut and refile it?
For a solid setup, you might want two panel saws—one rip saw with 5.5 to 7 ppi and one crosscut saw with 8-10 ppi. Combine that with two backsaws, a 12-inch tenon saw at 14 ppi (preferably rip) and an 8-10 inch dovetail saw also at 14 ppi. Down the line, you could add a 12 inch crosscut back saw while refiling the tenon saw to about 12 ppi for versatility as you get more into your projects!
Here’s my take: If you’ve got other tools to rip stock, don’t bother doing it by hand! I like to keep things traditional, but honestly, I've only used a rip saw a few times in the last decade. I have a bandsaw for that. A good crosscut saw is essential, and a pair of small backsaws (one rip and one crosscut) can handle most of your joinery, including tenons and dovetails.
I might look into that! $30 is a steal, especially since I don’t have a flat surface or vice yet to work with.