I've been really struggling with my Tormek 2000 setup lately. I invested quite a bit into it—new shafts, jigs, and tools—around $500 on top of the machine itself. But sharpening a single plane iron can take me hours, especially when I have to regrind the primary bevel on tough materials like PMV-11 or A2 steel. No matter what I do, the edge almost always ends up out of square by a 1/16 to 1/8 inch. It's frustrating because I've watched numerous tutorials and it's still not working. I've also considered getting a coarser stone, but I found that buying a Rikon slow speed grinder with a Veritas toolrest and Norton wheel costs about the same. The Tormek is less intimidating as it won't ruin the blade's temper, but is that enough of a reason to stick with it? Should I sell it and switch to a grinder, or is there value in keeping it around for future carving projects?
4 Answers
Have you checked if your grinding wheel is true? Sometimes the wheel itself can cause problems. I use a flat disk sharpening system, which is a bit different. Many people suggest aiming for a hollow grind instead of going right to the edge, and then finishing with bench stones. This approach can help keep your chisel steady when freehand sharpening. Just a thought!
It sounds like you're having a tough time! A lot of people find that using a resurfacer can save a huge amount of time when setting primary bevels. It's not always easy to get perfectly square edges, but they are adjustable. Honestly, sharp edges don’t need to be perfectly square to work well. You might want to consider that it doesn't always have to be precise to be functional!
I usually don’t grind my irons much; I have this old Delta grinder I inherited, and I've had no real issues with it. From what I've heard, those using CBN wheels on slower grinders often find them easier and faster compared to the Tormek. Many still use Tormek jigs, and you might find that switching to a grinder could speed things up for you.
It's worth analyzing how you dress and true your wheel. If you're too slow, you might be closing up the wheel's surface. Try moving that truing tool quickly to create a good aggressive surface. If that strategy doesn’t give you the results you want, consider switching to a CBN wheel since A2 and PMV-11 can be tough to grind with standard products. Good luck!
I've been truing the stone each time I sharpen, so I'm not sure if that's the issue. My wheel is the older SG-250 model. I usually go for a flat primary bevel first and do the honing with water stones afterward. I think I might be trying to take it too far down before shifting to the water stones, but I’m trying to replicate that factory edge look.