How to Achieve a Non-Yellowing Finish on Maple?

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Asked By CraftyExplorer99 On

I'm creating a tabletop for a client who wants to keep the lightness of the maple wood intact. I've been considering a water-based polyurethane finish, and I've heard thinning it out and applying multiple coats can lead to a great finish. However, I struggle with brush lines when using water-based poly. I don't have a way to spray at the moment, but I'm tempted to invest in a sprayer since spray application seems to prevent brush lines. Also, if anyone has tips on brushing, how long do I wait before sanding between coats? I often find sanding makes it gummy and I end up with a messy disk or need to scrape off buildup. Overall, I'm looking for advice on achieving a durable and non-yellowing finish for maple.

3 Answers

Answered By LacquerLover88 On

Target Coatings has a fantastic water-based lacquer that works well, but I've only used it with a sprayer. If you’re brushing, I'd say General Finishes is more manageable. Both have excellent options!

CraftyExplorer99 -

Good to know! I’ll keep General Finishes in mind since I’m not set up for spraying yet.

Answered By WoodWhisperer43 On

I recommend checking out General Finishes' water-based topcoat. It's super user-friendly and I've had good results without creating a mess. Plus, if you're not equipped to spray, it's a solid choice!

FinishingFanatic21 -

+1 for General Finishes. It really is a great product!

Answered By DIYDynamo56 On

I've had great success with sprayed water-based poly. Using a mid-range Harbor Freight spray gun works perfectly for me. I usually apply 3-4 coats, and it keeps the wood's natural color. Make sure to do some light wet sanding with 220 grit between the first coats and finish with 400. Cleaning the gun is a breeze too; just use water!

SprayGuru77 -

Those Harbor Freight sprayers are cheap, so I often just throw them in the dishwasher when I finish up. It's super convenient! And I agree, wet sanding really helps!

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