Hey everyone, I'm gearing up to install about 650 square feet of reclaimed 3/4" thick by 7" wide walnut flooring. The wood has been acclimating for about two weeks in my home, but it had been sitting outside at a lumber yard for about six months before that. Interestingly, the ends of the boards don't have tongues or grooves—only along the lengths. I have a couple of questions: First, should I plan to router new T&G on the ends? There are various lengths from 4 to 14 feet in the mix. Second, after laying down the flooring paper, should I chalk line to mark the joists and nail right into them? The subfloor is plywood over diagonally laid 1x6s, and I've got my tools ready—a Portanailer from Craigslist and all the cleats I need. I can't wait to start sanding it to get that rustic look in my mountain cabin at 6,000 feet elevation, but I want to make sure I'm doing this right!
3 Answers
Great choice on the plywood over 1x6s! Just make sure to screw it down tight. Use screws that are long enough to reach into the joists, so about 1-5/8" if you’re using 3/4" plywood. Keep the screws spaced about 4-6" apart to solidify everything. It'll feel rock solid once you’re done!
I'm right there with you! I'm in the middle of adding a kitchen island while running plumbing and electrical. I'll definitely feel the difference once I get those bugle heads in there!
I just went through a similar project with reclaimed oak flooring. If you're worried about cupping, consider glueing the boards down in addition to nailing them. You might even want to mill a T&G on the boards beforehand for best results. Optimally, you want to avoid nailing flat boards as it can lead to issues later on. And don't forget to chalk your line for a great start! Good luck—you’ve got this!
Absolutely! You should definitely router T&G on the ends to help prevent cupping. Trust me, it'll make a big difference in the long run. Also, picture framing the rooms is a classy touch that works beautifully with wider planks.
One quick tip: you can use a chop saw for a clean edge before routing.
Haha, I was afraid of that. I've got the time so I'll use a chop saw to get a clean edge first, then router it for T&G. Just to clarify, does picture framing mean making 45° cuts along the walls?
Oh, I looked it up! Picture framing really does look stunning with 7" planks, so I'm definitely going to do it. Appreciate the suggestion!
Thanks! The plywood feels a bit less than 3/4", maybe around 5/8". There’s definitely some creaking going on in the living room—this is my chance to fix that!