Best Finishes for a Dining Room Table That Doubles as a Gaming Table?

0
Asked By CraftyNinja77 On

Hey everyone! I'm building a dining room table that I'm also hoping to use for gaming, and I want to know what finishes you all have had success with. Specifically, I'm curious about how well they hold up against common cleaning products. I've heard Rubio is a great looking finish, but I'm considering sanding to a grit higher than the recommended 150-180. I've also been looking into General Finishes, but I'm unsure if it allows for spot refinishing like Rubio does, and I wonder if I can sand higher than 220 grit. I'm thinking about Waterlox too, but I'm cautious of its VOC levels and drying time. Any thoughts?

4 Answers

Answered By FinishingExpert On

What kind of wood are you using? And what’s the reason behind wanting to sand higher than 220? I see this a lot, but it seems like a bit of an obsession. Higher grits might not always be necessary.

SmoothOperator -

I personally prefer sanding to 600 for that ultra-smooth finish. I’ve done it with Danish oil on a desk and side table before, but I know a dining table will experience way more spills and wear.

CuriousWoodworker -

I’m using White Oak, by the way.

Answered By WoodGuru99 On

I personally think hard wax oils like Osmo and Rubio are nice because they're easy to apply and you can do spot repairs, but they don't offer the best protection for heavily used surfaces like dining and gaming tables. For my table, I used General Finishes Arm-R-Seal, and it’s been great. After three coats, it has excellent protection and a nice finish. Application is straightforward—just use a foam brush, wipe off excess, and it dries in about a day while fully curing in a week.

SandingPro123 -

Arm-R-Seal is solid, but I’ve used Osmo on floors and it really holds up over time. Don’t you think a table would wear out quicker than a floor?

FinishFanatic -

How do you prep the surface? Do you just go straight to Arm-R-Seal, or do you apply an oil/stain first?

Answered By TableTopMaster On

If you need a really tough finish, my go-to is conversion varnish. It’s really durable but does require spraying, which can be tricky if you're doing it at home.

Answered By FinishLineDude On

Honestly, I don’t think there’s much reason to sand higher than 220. With decent quality sandpaper, I often don’t go beyond 180 for a clear coat. For something like a dining table, which needs strong protection, going higher might not yield any benefits, and could potentially introduce some issues. If you can spray, definitely look at conversion varnish or catalyzed polyurethane. But for hand application, a hard wax oil could be the way to go.

LEAVE A REPLY

Please enter your comment!
Please enter your name here

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.