I'm starting my collection of hand planes and I'm trying to decide between a #3 or a #4 for smoothing. I'm planning to have the typical set of 3 (smoothing), 5 (jack), and 7 (jointer). After watching some YouTube videos, I realized I'd prefer a #5 1/2 jack for its extra mass, and since I won't be doing much edging on long pieces, the #5 1/2 should work for short edges too, so I'm skipping the #7. For the smoothing plane, I've heard a lot of people suggest a #4 over a #3, and one guy even recommended a #4 1/2. But I'm mostly working on smaller pieces and feel a #3 could be sufficient. Other than for larger surfaces like workbench tops, do I really need a #4 or a #4 1/2? What are the downsides of getting a #3 instead?
3 Answers
I've found that a #4 is generally easier to control and set up for smoothing. The extra width helps with getting smooth surfaces without leaving ridges. A #3 can feel small for some, but it's great if you have smaller hands. I also use a kanna for softer woods, and none of these options are bad; it really comes down to personal preference.
The weight of the plane really depends on the work you're doing. Heavier planes can be tiring for hand dimensioning, but if everything's machine-prepped, a little extra mass might assist you. Ultimately, it's about which feels best in your hands. The #4s are common and easier to find as vintage tools. If you get a #3, it won't be a bad choice either!
Honestly, if you're just starting out, a #5 works well for quite a bit of work. Many folks manage entire projects using just that one!
Some might argue that the extra weight gives you more inertia, which can make planing smoother, especially with tricky woods.