I'm in the process of replacing the carpet in my house with hardwood floors, and I definitely want to make sure I make the right choices before spending a small fortune. We don't have old hardwood beneath the carpet, so we're starting fresh. I'm especially concerned about our 27lb golden doodle scratching the wood—I've heard that white oak might be the best option to disguise any scratches. Also, there's a big bay window that gets a ton of sunlight, and I'm worried about the wood fading over time. Would a lighter color wood help with that?
What plank width do you all recommend? I've seen 2 1/4 inches mentioned a lot. Additionally, is there something that needs to go beneath the hardwood before installation? And lastly, what's the current average cost per square foot for this kind of project? I'm getting quotes right now and want to prepare myself for what to expect.
3 Answers
You have quite a few things to consider! Dog nails can definitely scratch hardwood, so choosing the right type is important. As for underlayment, you have options like cork, foam, or a vapor barrier, but it depends on how moist your area is. Typically, installation costs around $4-6 per square foot in the Northeast. Regarding plank width, it's really a matter of your taste; smaller pieces tend to be a bit pricier since they need more sorting. And yes, sunlight can fade wood, but if you're planning to stay long-term, hardwood can really add value. If you sell within five years, you might want to think about vinyl instead, as it’s often less of a hassle.
I'm not in your area, but I'd recommend getting in touch with a few reputable contractors. It's always good to have a couple of quotes so you know what your options are.
I’m definitely not trying to tackle this myself! I’d rather be informed before spending that much. It’s hard to find trustworthy people without feeling like I’m getting scammed, ya know?
I think varied plank widths, like 3, 4, or even 7 inches can be really beautiful and help hide scratches better than uniform widths. A lighter wood, too, may prevent fading better than darker options. Have you thought about adding a film to your windows? That could really help with UV damage. If you go for pre-finished hardwood, installation is much quicker since you avoid the lengthy finishing process, which can take up to a week or more to fully cure. There usually isn’t a need for a moisture barrier unless your subfloor is concrete, and don't forget to account for things like door sweeps during installation.
Thanks for the plank width advice! A window film is something we just started considering—would that really look weird though? I'm intrigued by the idea of pre-finished wood, and since we have a wood subfloor, it sounds like we might save some cash by skipping the underlayer. We're also planning on replacing the wall base—any suggestions for that?
We’re in a similar situation here in Wisconsin with average moisture levels. I agree that some kind of underlay would still be crucial. We’re quoting about $8,000 for 1,000 sq ft, including stairs, and since we’re not planning to sell anytime soon, we want to make sure it’s worth it.