I'm gearing up to build the doors for my house next month and I've been diving into all things door-making. I've read that Stave Core is one of the best ways to keep doors flat over time, which sounds great. I have a bunch of questions before I get started.
1. For the interior doors, would it be okay to use a cheaper wood like poplar for the Stave Core? I'm looking to save some cash while still getting a decent product. If poplar isn't the best choice, are there other reasonably priced woods I should consider? I've heard good things about white cedar and sapele, but I'm unsure how they price out.
2. What about the wood for an exterior Stave Core? I'd love recommendations for something that's cost-effective but will stay flat for years.
3. For the rail and stile frame of the door, do you have any guidelines on the width for the rails and the top/bottom stiles?
4. Regarding the Stave Core, what should be the minimum width of the stock before gluing them together? I'm working on doors that will measure 32x96. Is 1x3 wood suitable for gluing to get the necessary width?
5. Should I let the pieces sit for a day before gluing them together? I have a slab flattener and I'm thinking about making the Stave Core a bit thicker before planing it down to the finish I want.
6. I've read somewhere that having to stiles not glued to the rails allows for movement, but I'm a bit confused about that. Could that lead to more problems than benefits?
Any extra tips for success would be greatly appreciated! I'm planning to finish the doors with a black walnut veneer on top of the Stave Core. Thanks a lot!
1 Answer
Hey there! I do this for a living and I can say that the wood choice for the core doesn’t have to be perfect; just make sure you alternate the grain orientation of the staves. Cypress is a great option for both interior and exterior use and quite affordable. Poplar works too if that’s cheaper for you!
As for widths, there’s a handy rule called 1 over 4: for instance, something 1" thick should be up to 4" wide to avoid warping—scale as needed. I recommend using odd-number glue-ups for better stability; three pieces tend to work better than two.
Definitely wait a whole day for the glue to cure before you start milling—trust me, that moisture from the glue needs time to settle. And yes, glue the stiles and rails together; modern PVA glue is super flexible, especially types 2 or 3. Good luck!
Great advice! I love how detailed your response is. Really appreciate the info.
This is super helpful!! So, regarding the stave pieces, is there a specific width that’s best for those? I get the 1 over 4 rule for the rails, but should that apply to the stave core too? Also, do you recommend making the bottom stile wider than the top? Thanks!