I'm exploring the possibility of adding a riving knife that moves up and down with the blade on my portable Ryobi BTS20R-1 table saw. Currently, it has a fixed separator that restricts the table space I can use, and even though I've heard this saw isn't the best, it's the most suitable option for my needs. The limited space in my workshop makes it important for me to utilize the table surface effectively. Any ideas on retrofitting or adjusting this setup?
3 Answers
Your idea of using zero clearance inserts is on point! I've modified my old Craftsman saw with kits that let you easily remove the splitter. It can be a bit of a hassle to change inserts, but for safety, it’s a solid upgrade. Plus, these kits like the Microjig make it easier to manage without needing to unbolt anything every time you want to switch them out.
Adding a riving knife to older saws like yours can be tricky, as many aren't designed for it. You can remove the existing blade guard, which is a good start, but retrofitting a movable riving knife might not be feasible. I found some success by switching to jig knobs for quick access, which has made my setup easier, but if it's a fixed position, that might be your only choice for now. You could consider alternatives like the Shark Guard that offers a manually adjustable knife, though it won't solve the clearance issue completely.
I see what you're saying! I did switch my guard mount to use a knurled nut for easier adjustments. However, I wanted something I could easily move out of the way, which seems hard to achieve. The Shark Guard has caught my eye for its safety benefits, even if it doesn’t give me the full flexibility I need.
Yeah, what you have is technically a separator, but it’s commonly called a splitter. In my experience, using a feather board alongside the blade prevents kickback effectively. However, I understand that the fixed separator gets in the way for practical use. Crafting solutions for a small workspace is definitely a challenge, but it sounds like you're on the right track!
Exactly! I get that it’s not standard for a table saw, but with such limited space, I’m just trying to make it work. Thanks for sharing your approach with the feather board—definitely something to consider!
Thanks for the suggestion! I'm definitely leaning towards a splitter kit. Getting the throat plate right has been a challenge, though, since the OEM part is a thin layer and tricky to work with. Learning these techniques would have been a lot easier with my dad, who was a machinist!