I've been using my thickness planer and unfortunately, I've been getting a lot of snipe despite using sacrificial boards on either side. I'm wondering if I should glue the boards down or if there's a better technique since it feels wasteful to keep using extra wood. I've got a Lie-Nielsen 102 and a Stanley No. 5 that I'm restoring. Is using a hand plane to correct snipe a common practice? Which hand plane would work best for this?
3 Answers
Using a hand plane to fix snipe is doable, but it can get a bit tricky, especially if you’re trying to adjust the whole board to match the low spots. If you’re getting snipe, consider adjusting your planer to minimize it. Especially make sure your sacrificial boards are the same thickness as your main board—if they're thinner it could cause more issues. You really need those sacrificial pieces to extend beyond the board to effectively reduce the snipe.
I've got a lunchbox planer, and I often deal with snipe using a hand plane. Just measure the snipe and plane down the rest of the board for a flat finish. For longer boards, a #5 is a solid option, while a #3 works well for shorter ones. Just keep your eye on the thickness to make sure you’re not taking too much off!
One tip I’ve found with my cheap lunchbox planer is to gently pull up on the end of the board as it exits the machine. If you don’t, the end can get snagged and make the snipe worse. Just avoid pulling too hard; it's all about that balance to keep the board from getting stuck.