I'm getting a new metal roof installed soon, and my gas water heater currently vents through the garage roof and into the eaves of the second story. I want to limit the number of holes in my new roof. We're considering switching to electric in the future, but that's not happening right away. Since the heater isn't near an exterior wall, side venting isn't an option. Is there a way to reroute the vent to avoid going through the eaves? Or should I not stress about this at all? Here's the current setup: [link to image].
4 Answers
Consider switching to a heat pump water heater! They have great tax credits and rebates available right now, plus they’d optimize your metal roof for solar installation. Plus, the newer GE units can be plugged into a standard 120v outlet and later upgraded to 240v if needed. It's an excellent investment for the long haul!
Exactly! If you're going electric, make sure it’s a heat pump. Regular electric models can really jack up your utility bills.
Why not switch to a power vent heater? They can vent out the wall like most furnaces, and though the upfront cost is between $1100 to $1300, it might save you hassle later on.
Have you thought about bending the vent pipe around your gutter? As for the bottom opening, if it's at the ridge and your new roof has ridge vents, see if your contractor can work around it. They might even patch any holes if you decide to remove the pipe later.
Check the installation manual for your water heater; it usually has guidelines on how to vent it and how many elbows you can use. If you have an attic below the low roof, try offsetting it there to steer clear of the high roof. If there's no attic space, consider creating an exposed offset above the roof instead of going through the eaves. It might look a bit odd, but avoiding extra holes is worth it!
That's all true, but changing to electric isn't always the best option unless you know local rates. Heat pumps work wonders but keep in mind the variability in electricity costs depending on where you live.