Hey everyone! I've been into woodworking for about ten years now, mainly using power tools, but I'm diving more into hand tools lately. I decided to build a Rubo-style workbench, and while I reversed the grain on the laminations to prevent warping, I'm facing an issue. Whenever I try to use my hand planes, I'm getting a lot of tear-out. I've got some vintage hand planes like the Sweetheart era No. 4 and No. 5, an older No. 220, and a 1960s No. 6. I've tightened the frog and chip breaker, and the blades are razor sharp. I'm starting to think I might have to resort to using the belt sander if I can't find a better solution. Any tips?
4 Answers
If you're dealing with a lot of deep tear-out, planing cross grain can be helpful. Use that No. 6 and make sure the blade is super sharp. You might also want to add a back bevel to mimic a high-angle plane, which often helps reduce tear-out.
You might have to embrace some tear-out while flattening. Once it’s flat, use your freshly sharpened No. 4 to take the thinnest shavings possible to smooth things out more. Finish with a card scraper for those stubborn areas. Also, consider using Glancy’s No. 1 oil as a finish; it really brings out the beauty of the wood and doesn't leave a slick surface, which is a must for a workbench.
Try planing straight across the grain first to get the surface flat, and then you can smooth it out from there. You don’t need a perfect finish right away, just focus on getting it flat first!
It sounds like the grain direction could be a big part of your issue. What's your workbench made from? Just curious about how sharp your blades are too—sometimes a fresh perspective from someone experienced helps! Have you thought about trying a higher angle or using a scraper? My bench has a mix of grain, but with a keen blade, I can get nice results.
Check out my bench! I can shave easily with my blades after a good strop. I use a jig and diamond stones, then finish with a leather strop. I sharpen at 25° with a 30° bevel.