Hey everyone! I'm looking for some advice on using Timbermate grain filler for a unique project I'm working on. I have a large desktop that I've dyed with red aniline dye and sprayed with shellac. After some sanding, I've revealed some of the red and I want to get the right color by mixing Timbermate with metallic red mica, India ink, and some more dye. I have some specific questions about the application process to achieve the best results before the weekend arrives, as I really want to avoid any mistakes. Here are my questions:
1. What's the maximum amount of water I can add to Timbermate? I'd love it to be a soft, runny consistency for easier application.
2. Can I use white spirits to thin Timbermate during the haze stage without causing smudging or other issues?
3. What's the optimal percentage of mica powder I can mix in before it affects the drying or bonding?
4. What method should I use for packing shallow pores on my acacia desktop? Should I go against the grain or do a diagonal approach?
5. Is there any chemical or liquid that can reverse the haze back to its original form? What about after it's fully cured?
6. When it comes to removing the haze, what's the best tool and technique to avoid scratching?
I've been doing a ton of research and just want to nail these last steps before finishing with lacquer. Thanks for any tips you can give!
3 Answers
For your first question about adding water, Timbermate can usually handle a good amount of water, but I’d say aim for no more than a 50/50 ratio to water. This will keep it workable without compromising performance. As for thinning with white spirits, it’s not recommended since it can disrupt the bonding process. Stick to water!
Honestly, this seems like a bit of a complex project! I would definitely start with a sample board to test everything out before going all in on your desktop. You're right; not many people have done exactly what you're trying to do with Timbermate and that dye combination. Experimenting on a small scale will save you a lot of headache later.
Yeah, I totally agree! It's always better to figure things out on a test piece first. That way you can see how the dyes and fillers react together.
When it comes to adding mica, I’d suggest starting with a small amount—maybe around 5-10% of the total mixture. Too much could slow down drying or create uneven textures. As for that haze removal, use a fine non-scratch pad and go with the grain, but be careful not to press too hard to avoid scratches. Good luck with your project!
Good advice, but watch how much water you add! You could always try mixing in a bit more mica instead of water if you want that smoother texture.