I'm working on a jewelry box and I'm looking to avoid using butt joints for the bottom and top. I'm considering whether to use rabbets or grooves for both the bottom and the top. Additionally, since I'll be dovetailing the sides, how does that affect the choice between rabbets and grooves? Any advice is appreciated as I'm relatively new to woodworking!
5 Answers
Another method is to use a rebate that’s slightly wider than the depth you're cutting to for the bottom. By gluing in strips, the bottom is held securely in place. To hide the rebate, you can make the lower tail thinner than the rebate itself. Making those strips wider can also create a nice raised effect. It can really stand out with the right wood combination.
If you're aiming to conceal the grooves with dovetails, you might check out Rob Cosman's video on the subject. Sometimes, I don’t mind just gluing a simple bottom on, depending on who the box is for and the desired aesthetics.
One approach is to create a rebate that’s about 1/4 inch wider than the bottom. You can glue in some strips on the inside to keep the bottom in place. This essentially forms a groove using a rebate. If the strips are wider, they can elevate the box a bit, and using contrasting wood gives it a stylish touch. Adjust the size of the strips to match your box’s design!
Half-blind dovetails are a clever way to hide grooves. They become easier to manage if you have a thin piece of old saw blade to extend your kerf to the base line. For through dovetails, plugging the ends of the grooves can be a neat solution, similar to what Rob Cosman demonstrates in his video.
I like to plug the ends before assembling the box. Especially with unique wood grains, it’s advantageous to cut grooves first, before trimming the stock to size. This way, you can align the grain consistently around the sides and front of the box.
I've tried both rabbets and grooves. With rabbets, it takes some adjusting to get a snug fit, but a flush top can really enhance the appearance. I usually opt for grooves because they’re more forgiving; they allow for wood movement which is essential. For dovetails, you'll want to do a stopped dado to hide the grooves. Just be careful with blowout at the ends when using a plough plane. If you use half-blind dovetails, position the groove behind the middle of the tail to make it less noticeable. I generally glue the box together as a solid piece and then slice it into top and bottom sections for a cleaner look.
I'm confused—aren't the strips just sitting in the same rebate? How do they hold the bottom in place? Wouldn’t the rebate remain hidden since it’s on the bottom? Can’t you just glue the bottom right into the rebate?