Struggling to Sharpen My Chisels—Any Tips?

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Asked By CraftyBear93 On

I've been using hand planes for years and can sharpen their irons just fine, but I'm hitting a wall with my chisels. I'm working on my first mortise and tenon joint, and my chisels (both bevel edge and mortise) just won't sharpen right. I started with the MKII standard guide, but it doesn't grip my mortise chisels well at all. I then got the Veritas side clamping honing guide, which seemed promising since it holds the chisel better, but it's still letting the chisel rock side to side due to the thickness of the blade. So now I've got a bunch of chisels with multiple 25-degree primary bevels and crooked edges. How do you sharpen your mortise chisels effectively, and what can I do to improve?

7 Answers

Answered By MasonCraftsman On

Have you tried adjusting your grip while sharpening? Your chisels should have their points perpendicular to the stone to help maintain the bevel angle.

Answered By HoningHero On

The MKII jig can be hit-or-miss for mortise chisels. I found success using the MK II Narrow Blade Honing Guide, which fits better for these thicker chisels. You might want to check it out!

CraftyBear93 -

Thanks for the tip! I might switch to that one; been having a hard time with my current setup.

Answered By SharpieWizard42 On

I usually sharpen my chisels freehand, inspired by Paul Sellers' method. I do have a cheap guide I sometimes use to reset the primary bevel, but honestly, freehand sharpening is so quick and effective that I don't often need it. If I do use a guide, I focus on adjusting my pressure so I don't end up with a skewed edge. Just take your time and keep the chisel steady!

ChiselGuru88 -

Totally agree! After watching that video, I started freehand sharpening too. It's faster, and I can keep my edges sharp throughout a project by touching them up whenever needed.

Answered By Woodwhisperer93 On

I'm all about the freehand technique with my mortise chisels. They came with a 35-degree secondary bevel from the factory, so I keep it at that angle. Here’s my tip: hold the chisel slightly skewed and focus on short strokes. You don’t need a knife-edge finish on mortise chisels; they’re meant for pounding and prying. I usually stop at 1200 grit and call it a day!

MortiserMan22 -

Good advice! I tend to stop sharpening at 1200 grit too. Just enough for mortise work without overdoing it.

Answered By ChiselBuff On

Honestly, I thought the Veritas MKII would be the best bet, but I realized freehand sharpening really works for me. Just grab a sharpie, color your bevels, and take it slow. This way, you can really see how even your strokes are turning out!

WoodworkerJay -

I get that! I tried the honing guide too, but it wasn't cutting it for me. Gonna give freehand another shot!

Answered By Instructor_in_Wood On

As a carpentry instructor, I recommend checking out some great resources for sharpening. Peter Korn's 'Woodworking Basics' showcases freehand methods, and Chris Schwarz has a concise guide called 'Sharpen This'. I personally use a Lie Nielsen guide with good results, but it takes a lot of practice to get your mortise chisels right, especially if you're sharpening freehand. Keep at it!

Answered By SharpeningSage On

If your bevel is uneven, try using coarser media to reshape it. Work freehand, checking your progress often. Using guides without compensating for wear can lead to those issues you’re dealing with. Remember, the bevel doesn’t have to be perfect to be functional!

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