I've been trying to find a more efficient way to make sliding dovetails, and I considered using a combination or plow plane. However, I've noticed that brands like Veritas and Stanley (models 45-55) don't offer any blades specifically for dovetail angles. I understand that the geometry of a dovetail groove can be tricky, especially since it's not adjustable like other cuts. It seems like there must be a way for these planes to create a dovetail channel, especially since we have dedicated dovetail planes. So, why don't combination planes come with specialized dovetail blades? Do I need to grind my own? Just to clarify, I'm asking about the male part (the tail) of the dovetail, not the female part.
7 Answers
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I found success by modifying a wooden shoulder plane to cut the tail. All I did was reshape the sole and regrind the blade to the right angle—it worked like a charm! For the groove, definitely rely on a saw and then clean it up with a router. You won’t find a plane that does that job better.
There was a Stanley model, the No 444, designed for this purpose, but expect to pay a pretty penny for it. They're pretty rare!
Dovetail planes are specifically designed to create the male part of the joint, not the groove itself. You really should consider how a plane would cut the sloped sides of a dovetail groove in terms of clearance and cutting angle. Most of the time, you're going to be planing end grain, which complicates things. It’s no wonder there aren’t dedicated planes for this and that saws are typically used to get that slope.
True, but sometimes it's worth trying different tools to see what works best!
If you want to get this done, I’d recommend using a grooving or shoulder plane to handle the width of the top of the dovetail. Then, you can saw and chisel out the slopes. You'll get a cleaner result that way!
Honestly, if you've already sawed a dado with a fence, cutting a sliding dovetail groove isn't much different—just swap out the square fence for an angled one. Using a saw to create the groove seems way more efficient than trying to get it done with a plane through all that end grain. Those Japanese dovetail side rebate planes can help smooth things out right at the end, but they’re not ideal for the bulk of the cut.
It’s tricky to make that cut in one pass with a hand plane. It really limits what you can do. Trying to manage all that in just a single pass? Good luck with that!
I see your point about it being tricky. Maybe a specialized approach is just more practical?